Saturday, July 26, 2014


Game Changer


Ricky, the youngest Whitlock son, was just a little kid when a game changing fire destroyed the family’s life on Oahu and forced the move back to California from Hawaii. His childhood was very different from that moment on. He and his older brothers and sisters had been living a lifestyle, in rural Hawaii, that had them surfing every day before school. Now, the family moves to Southern California’s Riverside County, a hot, dry region of rolling hills dotted with sheep and cattle ranches. This is one of the stories we will explore in the upcoming documentary: 50 Years of Shaping, The Journey of a Surf Family.

 




 

 

 

 

 

Inland

Lake Elsinore, CA, where the Whitlocks ended up after the fire destroyed
their surf board factory in Hawaii
With the curiosity of youth, the Whitlock kids made sure they had a good time, no matter what. Running the hot, dry hills of Riverside County, Ricky and his brothers and sisters lived a country lifestyle that allowed them something of the freedom they knew in rural Hawaii. But, most importantly, on the weekends, mom, Patty, packs them all up and they head for the beaches of SoCal. Cory doing what he does best…surfing, with a much younger Ricky, following along. Ricky was just a little guy on those weekend trips to the ocean and he does not really remember learning to surf. It was just what his family did and, of course, he had an older brother to keep up with. I asked Cory if he taught his little brother to surf. He cocked his head at me, grinned and quietly, but adamantly, said ‘of course I did!’

 Resilience

It’s a testament to this tight knit family that they could be ripped from a life they loved, filled with surf, sand, freedom and Aloha culture to end up loving the life they were given, filled with California’s hot, dry hills and cowboy culture. It took spirit to adapt (stories that we will explore here and in the documentary). It took resilience to find pleasure in this alien environment. The resilience and closeness of this family would ultimately give Ricky, years later, the strength to rehabilitate from the life altering accident on Pipeline that broke his back. 

 

Inland Hills to Big Waves

 
So, how did Ricky Whitlock end up one of the top big wave surfers in the world? Cory has the memory of teaching Ricky to surf, on those perfect weekends, interwoven tightly with the pride he has for his younger brother. Resilience and a competitive spirit pushed Ricky, as a child, to compete with his older brother. Because surfing is just what this family does. Resilience and a competitive spirit pushed Ricky to take the family business of competitive surfing to a whole new level. Talk to any family member and you will see in their eyes the pride and respect they have for Ricky. They each acknowledge the resilience and drive that has taken this talented young surfer to the apex of his sport. The one thing you won’t see there is surprise. Nope, they are not one bit surprised by Ricky’s incredible journey. They are no more surprised today than they were when, at 9 years old, after his first competition, Bob Hurley walked up, introduced himself to Ricky and asked him if he would surf for Billabong. I’m tempted to say that was the beginning of an amazing career, but the truth is, Ricky’s career began during family surfing weekends a long, long time ago.

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